Italy – Pasta, Passionate People, and the Pope

I have traveled to Italy multiple times, and each time it is a different experience.

Italy is made up of 20 different regions which are further grouped as Northern, Central, and Southern.

The majority of my Italian travels have been in the Northern and Central areas with a couple trips down into Southern regions.

Northern Area

Central Area

Southern Area

  • I still need to visit

Before starting your journey to Italy, check to see if there is a Rick Steve’s audio tour for the city you are visiting. I used his Audio Tour in Florence, and it enhanced my experience when visiting Michaelangelo’s David, The Uffizi Gallery, and a Renaissance walking tour around Florence. Rick Steve’s tours are free and include a map to know where you are and where you are going while listening to his tour.

Cinque Terre is located in Liguria and translates to “Five Lands”. The reason to visit Cinque Terre is for the views! Ocean, hills, and buildings – they are amazing! Plan for lots of walking and steep stairs (except for Monterossa). Ironically, I visited Cinque Terre during a storm that resulted in Cinque Terre being shut down. Even though it was windy and rainy at times, the trains still ran, and I had the place pretty much to myself.

To orient yourself it is good to know the city names starting from the north and traveling south:

  • Monterossa al Mare
  • Vernazza
  • Corniglia
  • Manarola
  • Riomaggiore

I arrived in Cinque Terre via train through La Spezia (southern end) and departed via Levanto (northern end). By staying in a Riomaggiore Airbnb, I was greeted with beautiful, classic views of the city. The travel time to the other Cinque Terre cities (via Cinque Terre Express) is just 5-10 minutes.

Cinque Terre Express coming in to the station. We were expecting an old, classic train vs. the high speed Italian trains.
The view from the Airbnb (Marina’s House) in Riomaggiore – this is why I chose this place. Perfect location.
Dau Cila – a very rustic/Italian interior with good tasting food. This restaurant is right below my Airbnb.
Monterrosa is very flat which makes it ideal if you are not able to do a lot of stairs.
To see the views, you will have to hike up irregular steps. And there are a lot of them.
After climbing many stairs, I was rewarded with the classic view of Vernazza.

Cinque Terre Recommendations

Transportation
Lodging
  • Riomaggiore Airbnb – Marina’s House – Great location – in the middle of Riomaggiore
Dining
Activities
  • Hiking and Photos. This is a place to just wander and admire.

When I travel to Venice, I arrive at the Venezia St Lucia Train Station because it is a 15 minute walk to my Airbnb. I like to stay in Airbnb’s to experience the charm of Venice – either a room at canal level or the old building walls still exposed. Lots of the Airbnb’s have character – you just need to find them by searching through the posted photos.

The best way to see Venice is by foot or ride the Vaporetto (a water bus). I purchased my Unica City Pass ahead of time so I could hop on and hop off the Vaporetto at any time.

There are 118 islands in Venice which are connected via bridges. As you are wandering around, you will walk over MANY of them. Each Island has its own church and square. St Marks Square is the most famous with St Mark’s Basilica. I enjoy St Mark’s square because in the evening, there are “dualling” musicians” that you can listen to while enjoying a glass of wine. You can also book a concert in one of the many churches. The acoustics are amazing!

If you want to see some unique locations and experience wonderful food, I recommend a Ciccheti Walking Tour. I chose an early evening tour so the food tasting and drinks doubled also as my dinner.

St Marks Square from the Grand Canal.
When I wander around Venice, I never know what I am going to find.
One of the many tiny churches on the 118 islands that make up Venice
Take the Vaporetto to Murano. It is not nearly as busy as the main part of Venice.
While on Murano Island, enjoy a show where they making the actual glass products.
Burano is a longer Vaporetto ride; however, it is worth seeing the beautifully painted buildings.
When in Venice, assume there will be flooding when the tide is just right.
I chose this Airbnb because it overlooked one of the canals. I had an hourly serenade from one of the Gondoliers.
A concert in St Vidal Church. The musicians were fantastic and the acoustics amazing!
If you prefer to stay outside, the “dualling musicians” in St Marks Square are also very good.
One of the MANY samples during the walking Ciccheti Tour. I saw nooks and crannies I would have not normally seen or visited.
If you are looking for a larger meal, Oniga Restaurant had a great atmosphere and wonderful food.

Venice Recommendations

Transportation
Lodging
  • Venice Airbnb – Moisè Terrace! – Very close to Saint Marco Square. Lots of narrow stairs to reach the place. Great location and can accommodate a large group.
  • Venice Airbnb – Ve.N.I.Ce. Cera Canal View – Expect to hear serenading Gondaliers and Venetian boat traffic.
Dining
Activities
  • Burano
  • Murano
  • Interpreti Veneziani Concert in San Vidal Church
  • Saint Marks Square
  • Tour through the dungeon (bridge of sighs)
  • Wander around Venice (you will not get lost)

Florence is one of my favorite cities in Italy. I love the art, architecture, history, and food. I have visited Florence multiple times and it is one of the places I always want to return to.

When traveling to Florence, prepare ahead of time by purchasing admission tickets in advance to avoid ticket lines. Also, download Rick Steve’s Florence Audio Tour. The Uffizi Gallery is packed with art and sculptures, and it can be overwhelming. By following Rick Steve’s tour, I was able to follow a specific path, make sure I was able to see all of the critical art, and enjoy the paintings and sculptures between stops in the Audio Tour.

One disappointment was going into the Duomo. It is so beautiful and detailed on the outside, I was expecting the inside to be similar (like Santa Croce Church). Instead it was very plain and a let down. I would not recommend spending the money to go in, unless it is packaged with another ticket to access some other place.

Some of my favorite places to visit:

  • Santa Croce Church – plan to spend 2-3 hours here.
  • David – when in Florence, this is a can’t miss. Be aware that the L’Academia is closed on Mondays, so plan accordingly.
  • Santa Maria Novella Church on the first Friday-Sunday of the month. This is when the 15th Century are viewable, and they continue to find more behind the wall plaster.
Looking down on Florence from the top of the bell tower – 414 steps!
This was the view from the top of the roof of the wonderful Airbnb I stayed at.
Take time to wonder around Florence at night – a lot of the sites are lit up.
Buy tickets ahead of time to see Michelangelo’s David. I chose the first time available, and I was able to enjoy David without the crowds.
One of the many enclaves in Santa Croce Church. Plan to spend a couple of hours here.
The original Ghiberti Gates of Paradise are located in the Cathedral Museum. When I return to Florence, I will spend more time in the Museum because there is so many things to see.
The Birth of Venus by Boticelli is located in the Uffizi Gallery. Rick Steve’s Audio tour will ensure you see it and the history behind it.
Santa Croce has Tombs and memorials of so many famous historians. This is Galileo’s Tomb.
The original Ghiberti Gates are amazing! Close up of one of the many panels.
Gigi Cafe was down the street from my Airbnb. I went there for coffee, breakfast, and lunch!
Santa Maria Novella Church – The painting on the right is from the 15th Century and only visible the first Friday-Sunday of the Month.
Inside the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata. I discovered this just by wandering around Florence and walking in. You never know what you will find.

Florence Recommendations

Transportation
Lodging
Dining
Activities

My Italian side of the family is probably not going to be happy to read this, but If you want the full-on Italian experience, visit Rome. I found Rome to be loud, chaotic, and busy. I prefer the calmer atmosphere found in the Tuscany area or Northern Italy.

The last time I overnighted in Rome was many years ago and the hotel is no longer there. If I return to Rome, I would stay at place around the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Wedding Cake triangle. These are within walking distance of the Train station as well as walking distance to everything else to see in Rome. It would make a good home base location.

There are a couple of ways to explore Rome – either on your own and purchase tickets ahead of time, or book through a tour.

When wondering around Rome, there are numerous attractions to see. The highlights are the Colosseum, the Roman Forum (right next to the Colosseum), the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain (don’t forget to through a coin over your left shoulder and make a wish).

In addition to the Rick Steve’s Audio Tour for Rome, I found the book “Rome Monuments Past and Present” a valuable resource. It contains photos of what the Roman Forum or the Colosseum looks like today and then a transparent overlay to show what it would have looked like in its heyday.

Looking down on Rome – a little on the hazy side.
Inside the Colosseum. Next time I go I will do an underground tour.
Roman Forum – this is where you will find the temple for the Vestal Virgins
Outside the Pantheon. Unusually calm when I visited. If you buy tickets, the cash line is typically faster than the credit card line.
Inside the Pantheon. It is the best preserved ancient Roman building in Rome. Access is free on Sundays and/or if you are under 18.
The Trevi Fountain! It is worth going at night to see it lit up.

Rome Recommendations

Transportation
  • Arrive at by train at Roma Termini train station
  • Walk
Activities
  • Colosseum – Purchase tickets at https://ticketing.colosseo.it/en/. Tickets are released 30days ahead of time and have a timed entry
  • Pantheon – Purchase tickets at: Italian Museum website. Entry is free on Sundays and if you are under 18.
  • Trevi Fountain – no ticket required – just walk to it. Do NOT sit on the Spanish Steps near the Trevi Fountain. It is illegal and you could face a fine up to €400!
  • Roman Forum – Tickets to the Roman Forum are normally packaged with the Colosseum and the Palatine Architectural area. https://ticketing.colosseo.it/en/

If Rome is on your itinerary, then allocate some time to visit the Vatican. I spent an entire day here. Enter the Vatican soon as it opens to ensure you are able to see the Sistine Chapel. If there are too many people in the Sistine Chapel, sometimes the Vatican will close it.

To access the Vatican Museum’s, you can purchase your tickets ahead of time at the Vatican Museums Online Ticket Office. Prior to entering the Museum, you will need to go through security that is similar to airport security. Because you are entering the Vatican, there is a dress code – avoid wearing sleeveless t-shirts, tank tops, shorts, and open toed sandals.

Is it worth all of the work to access the Vatican Museum? DEFINITELY!!! Seeing Michelango’s Sistine Chapel is AMAZING and should be on everyone’s bucket list. There is also beautiful art in the Tapestry Museum and the Map Room. I found art around every corner, and it is worth wondering around if the Museum is not too crowded.

To ensure you do not miss some of the critical sites, download the Rick Steve’s Vatican Audio Tour before you enter the Vatican Museum.

The Swiss Guard are the Pope’s personal bodyguard. The 135 members have taken an oath to lay down their lives for the Pope.
The outside of the Vatican Museum. Take time to explore and enjoy the artwork on the outside, as well.
This is the Map Room located on the west side of the museum courtyard. in the Vatican
The Sistine Chapel. This image was first published on Flickr.Original image by Richard Mortel. The copyright holder has published this content under the following license: Creative Commons Attribution.
Inside of St Peter’s Basilica. Saint Peter and over 90 popes are buried in St Peter’s
Michelagelo’s Pieta in St Peter’s Cathedral. This is one of Michelangelo’s first works – he was 23 years old and he carved this out of a solid piece of Carrera marble

Vatican Recommendations

Activities
  • Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel – arrive early because the Vatican will close the Sistine Chapel if it becomes too crowded.
  • Blessing by the Pope – occurs in Saint Peter’s Square at Noon every Sunday